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OUR PICKS OF PIZZAS WITH PIZZAZ

Pizzerias are places where you never need to worry about which fork to use. You eat with your hands. Here are some favorite haunts, fancy and casual, of The Times’ restaurant critics and food writers:

By the yard

The Times’ restaurant critic never really reckoned with L.A. pizza until Cheebo. “I love this place,” S. Irene Virbila said in her review last month. Its unique selling point is pizza by the yard, but the novelty shape aside, the art is in the dough, which is given a pleasant tang by the incorporation of longer-fermented dough, or biga. Recommended toppings include sausage and fennel, or a combination of mozzarella, goat cheese, fresh tomato and a scattering of slivered fresh artichokes and olives. For pizza dinners with wine, expect to pay $20 a head.

Cheebo, 7533 W. Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 850-7070. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily, 8 a.m. to midnight.